Plant prices have risen sharply the past two years. So have costs of insecticides, fertilizers, deer repellents, mulch, tools and other accessories gardeners use to keep their green investments alive. Even bagged dirt is no longer dirt-cheap.
What’s a gardener on a tight budget to do? Fortunately, this is one pastime that lends itself well to belt-tightening strategies. Let’s dig into specifics.
Ways to Save on Plant Purchases
You could pay full price at prime planting time like most gardeners, or you could pay half or less with some bargain-sniffing strategies. Start by looking for markdowns on overstocked, out-of-bloom or past-prime plants. These are often perfectly healthy, just not attractive enough to fetch top dollar.
Four top savers: Perennials relegated to a bargain rack after they have finished blooming for the season; annuals and vegetables that are still viable but unsold after the spring rush; trees and shrubs that are misshapen markdowns but fixable via pruning and patience; and tulips, daffodils and other spring-blooming bulbs that are often 50% off when unsold but still plantable by the end of October.
Get on your favorite garden center’s loyalty program. Many offer discounts, coupons, rewards and special sales to regular customers. While you’re at it, let local garden center managers know you’re interested in plants they want to clear out. You might get a call before plants go on the clearance rack—and maybe even year-end freebies.
Bargains are sometimes possible through mail-order and online vendors, but expect the plants to be small and bare root—shipped with weight-saving packing material around the roots instead of soil. Coddle them in a pot for a year to maximize success.
Plant bargains also can be found from unconventional sources, including plant societies, master gardeners, libraries, public gardens, farmers markets, schools and garden clubs—all of which often hold plant sale fundraisers using divisions from members’ yards, locally started seedlings and discounted greenhouse transplants.
You might also encounter plants at yard sales. These sometimes can be bargain-priced, dig-your-own gold mines. Just be careful you’re not buying someone else’s overly aggressive varieties.
Landscape companies are another overlooked plant resource. Landscapers routinely dig up healthy plants during renovations, simply because they have outgrown the space or a new homeowner doesn’t like them. They may let you salvage the vegetation instead of dumping it.
Ways to Trim the Plant Budget
Wherever you buy plants, opt for less expensive, smaller sizes. Given patience and good growing conditions, a quart-sized perennial will end up at the same mature size as a gallon-sized one but at a significantly lower starting price.
Leaning small especially saves on trees, which can double in price for just 2 or 3 feet of additional height. Research shows smaller transplant sizes usually establish faster and catch up to their bigger brethren within a few years.
Starting new plants from seeds yields way more plants to the dollar than transplants. Vegetables and annual flowers are fairly easy to start from seed inside in winter. Basic workshop lights with fluorescent tubes are sufficient for growing seedlings, which usually need only about six weeks of inside growth before being ready to plant outdoors.
Even less expensive is planting seeds directly in the ground outside, bypassing the need for such things as lights, pots and potting mix. See the sidebar for more on how to direct-seed plants.
A third plant budget-stretcher is mining your own plants for expansion. Most perennial flowers can be dug and divided into fist-sized pieces after several years of growth, giving you free plants to use elsewhere.
Clumps of spring bulbs can also be dug and divided after their foliage browns in spring. Some shrubs yield newbies if their suckers—roots that send up shoots—are dug and transplanted. Virginia sweetspire, summersweet, hydrangea, diervilla, kerria, lilac, bayberry, sweetshrub, sweetbox and forsythia are good sucker-transplant candidates.
Check with friends and neighbors to see if they would like to trade divisions, which can yield free new varieties for your yard. New shrubs, trees, roses and evergreens can be created by snipping 4- to 6-inch pieces off the tips of mother plants and sticking them into a moist potting mix. That induces roots to grow from the buried cut ends, giving you a new “baby” from the plant.
This works for many annual flowers and tropicals, too.
If you are spending too much on annual flowers, save money by converting space to perennials. Limit those $6 annuals to pots, hanging baskets and window boxes. Perennials cost more upfront and don’t bloom as long as annuals, but the payback is usually three years or less.
Some annuals, such as ageratum, celosia and cosmos, are good at self-seeding, meaning they come up on their own each spring from seeds dropped by last year’s flowers. This is a way to fill beds without any new expense and only limited work, e.g., removing seedlings you don’t want or transplanting self-sprouted seedlings where you do want them.
Save on your potted plant budget by starting with fewer plants each season. With patience, pots of fewer premium-priced potted annuals fill in eventually and cost less than tightly packed ones.
Another pot option is scavenging the yard for perennial flowers you can dig and divide to use in pots. The best are those with colorful foliage that add interest beyond the few weeks they flower, such as coral bells, hostas, golden sedges, variegated liriopes and ferns. Return the perennials to the ground in the fall to overwinter and mine again next year.
A third pot money-saver is using double-duty plants. Most so-called houseplants—crotons, palms, snake plants, peace lilies, rubber plants, etc.—are tropical or subtropical species that do perfectly fine outside in northerly summers and inside over winter.
Consider using plants you bought as houseplants in summer pots, dressed up with coordinated annuals. Conversely, instead of discarding tropicals bought for summer pots at the end of the season, convert them into houseplants over winter.
Ways to Save on Gardening Products
The fastest way to save on gardening products is to cut out things you—and your plants—don’t need.
Some possibilities: wound dressings for pruned trees (not necessary and sometimes counter-productive); leaf shine (a soft, damp cloth with diluted soap cleans dusty houseplant leaves); compost activator (a few shovelfuls of finished compost or soil adds decomposition microbes); antitranspirant/antidesiccant sprays (somewhat helpful in transplanting, but research shows little to no cold-weather protection); moisture-holding gels for potted plants (research shows little to no water-saving benefit); landscape fabric (inhibits soil oxygen and traps moisture in poorly drained beds, plus weeds grow on top if you mulch over it), and tree fertilizer spikes (trees usually get the nutrients they need from soil, decomposing mulch and/or fertilizer on the surrounding lawn).
Next is reducing the amounts you use of products such as fertilizer.
Plants take up only the nutrients they need. Adding more doesn’t make them grow bigger or better and is a waste of money, not to mention potentially polluting.
If plants are growing well, there’s usually no need to add anything. If they’re not, a soil test reveals if lack of nutrition is a culprit—along with exactly which nutrients are needed and in what amounts.
Extension offices and many garden centers offer inexpensive DIY soil-test kits to help you spend fertilizer dollars wisely.
Bug and disease sprays are another potential cost-saver. Some gardeners routinely use pesticides “just in case,” both wasting money and potentially killing beneficial insects that would have controlled pest bugs naturally—and at no charge.
Most bugs and diseases target only specific plants, and much of the damage is temporary or cosmetic anyway. Consider products only when plants are under threat from intolerable or potentially fatal damage—and when there are no better alternatives.
Sometimes, free or less expensive alternatives are available for other garden products. For example, an index finger stuck a few inches into the soil can give an accurate read on soil moisture versus investing in a soil moisture meter.
Expensive potting mix can be stretched by mixing your own from bulk ingredients or by refreshing last year’s saved mix with half-new mix, assuming last year’s mix wasn’t bug- or disease-ridden.
Many municipalities collect leaves in fall and offer the resulting free or low-cost compost to residents the following year, saving on bagged or bulk purchases. Tree companies often are willing to drop loads of chipped tree branches in home driveways, saving themselves hauling/dumping fees.
Even costly hardscaping materials such as bricks, stone, patio furniture, garden ornaments and fencing are sometimes available free or heavily discounted from neighbors advertising them through local social media channels.
Lots of household waste is fair game for repurposing in the garden, including storage tubs that morph into flower containers, cut-off soda bottles that serve as plant protectors, and butter tubs that become seedling pots. See the sidebar on page 13 for 20 household rejects that can serve new life in the garden.
Repurpose Household Items in the Garden
Gardening can give a second life to all sorts of household junk, er, “resources.” Here are several items that can be retooled:
- Old shoes, baskets, backpacks, pocketbooks. Just about any worn-out item that can hold soil can morph into a plant container. Just be sure it has drainage holes.
- Vinyl blinds, plastic detergent bottles. Cut in strips with a point at one end and use as plant labels. Use a marker or wax pencil for writing.
- Dishes, glassware, vases, ceramics. Old, one-off and even cracked pieces can be crafted into garden ornaments.
- Newspaper, junk mail, office paper. All can be shredded and added to the compost pile.
- Empty milk jugs. Wash and reuse as plant protectors over young vegetable garden plants on cold nights. Or use the cut-off bottoms as seed-starting containers.
- Plastic soda bottles. Cut a vertical slit and wrap the bottles around young trees, shrubs and vines to protect them against rodent chewing.
- Margarine tubs, yogurt cups, egg cartons. Poke holes in the bottom and use them as seed-starting containers.
- Plastic wrap. After food-bowl duty, save a few sheets to drape over seed-starting trays. It traps moisture like a mini greenhouse.
- Spray bottles. Rinse them well and use them to mist seed trays or tip cuttings. Or use them for spraying animal repellents.
- Used sandpaper. Staple strips of it to the tops of raised-bed boards or other wooden-bed edging to repel slugs, which detest crawling over scratchy surfaces.
- Old mailbox. Relocate it to the garden, where it can become a repository for markers, labels, string and all those other little things you forget in the garage.
- Old broomstick, left-over PVC pipe. Make a watering wand for reaching hanging baskets and window boxes by using metal hose clamps to secure your garden hose to them.
Direct Seed Outside to Save Money
Even cheaper than buying greenhouse transplants on sale or starting seeds inside is direct seeding them outside.
Direct seeding is simply tamping seeds into loosened, moistened garden soil at the right time of year. Similar to how nature does most of its planting, direct seeding can cut a flower budget down to pennies on the dollar.
Save your seeds each year instead of buying packets, and you can directly seed the following year at no cost. Seeds saved from heirloom or traditional open-pollinated plants work better than seeds from hybrid varieties, which often produce no or sterile seeds and variable offspring.
Many annual and perennial flowers start readily from seeds planted directly into the ground. Some of the easiest are marigolds, zinnias, cosmos, poppies, alyssum, cornflowers (bachelor’s buttons), larkspur, snapdragons, sweet peas, floss flowers (ageratum), flowering tobacco, gloriosa daisies, hollyhocks, nasturtiums, strawflowers and sunflowers.
Many vegetables also direct seed readily, including peas, lettuce, spinach, kale, beets, carrots, radishes, beans, cucumbers, squash, melons, okra and corn.
Three factors are key to success:
Timing. Some plants are sensitive to cold and shouldn’t be planted until the threat of frost is gone and the soil is sufficiently warm. Seed packets list the dates when it’s safe to plant different varieties.
Loose soil. The soil doesn’t need to be tilled or deeply dug, but seeds sprout much better when lightly tamped into the top quarter- to half-inch of soil loosened 4 to 6 inches deep. Tossing seeds on top of hard, compacted ground usually results in little to no germination.
Damp soil. The soil surface needs to be consistently damp until the seeds sprout. That might mean lightly watering once or twice daily on dry, sunny days.
Once seedlings are growing, the main job is thinning—if needed—and making sure weeds don’t out-compete the new seedlings.
Weeds and excess plants are easy to pull when they’re young. Better yet, snip them with scissors.
Be patient for sprouting to happen. While some seeds sprout in a matter of days, others may take two weeks or more. Sprouting also generally takes longer in cooler soil.